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Splitting Timber for Wood Turning

Updated: Mar 4

I first started splitting timber in about 2011 - it's a process that fascinates me - although not one I do that often (see end of article).


It's a process of converting logs - sections of a tree - in to more manageable pieces - generally quartering the log.


Photo showing person with chain saw cutting felled tree into logs in woodland
Timber being cut up in woodland (not by me), prior to splitting

If you look down through a log through the grain, and imagine it is a cake, imagine cutting that cake first into 2 approximate equal halves, then cutting each of those half pieces in half again. You'd end up with 4 pieces, approximately the same size, and each approximately 1/4 of the cake. That's what I do - except that instead of using a knife to cut the cake, I drive wedges into the end of the timber, which, believe it or not, splits the timber into pieces.


The wedges I use are big lumps of metal, which are driven in using using a large lump hammer and sledge hammer. I use several of them, driving them through the timber as the wood starts to split.


Timber splitting wedge on end of log of timber, with lump hammer
Timber splitting wedge and lump hammer

Large sledge hammer shown beside log with wood splitting wedge in
Sledge hammer and wedge with log

Words don't do it justice though, so included are some photos below, dating from 2011. Clearly it's important to look after your safety whilst doing this - as this is a blog about my personal journey rather than a guide on splitting wood, I have not included safety steps here. Do your own research if you intend to do this yourself.


Generally I first make a saw cut across the timber, looking for any cracks or weakness in the grain, as the wood is more likely to split down there. Then I start to drive the wedge in using the smaller lump hammer.


Metal splitting wedge sitting vertically in end of log with lump hammer beside
Starting process - metal splitting wedge being driven into saw cut

Then when ready I change to the sledge hammer, and with a number of good hits, the wood should start to split. Sometimes I might need a second metal wedge to create more force.


Log with split going down middle with splitting wedge forcing it open
Log starting to split

As the wood opens up, wedges are generally needed in the side to create extra pressure - sometimes I use larger wooden wedges here too.


Log on side with splitting wedge forcing log open more
Log opening up more

Eventually, the log is in half.


Log split into 2 pieces, lying on grass
Log split in half

Now, it's time to split each of these in half again, using the same techniques.


One of the half pieces of timber previously split, on end with wedge starting to split
Starting to split one of the halves

Eventually I'll end up with a pile of quartered timber.


Pile of logs, quartered, lying on the group
Pile of quatered timber, ready to stack up and dry for a few years

This makes it sound easy - but in reality there is a lot of skill and judgement involved to get it right, as well as physical energy to do this splitting, which with long term physical health conditions I don't always have.


Having said all this, and however fascinating it is, it isn't some i do very often. Taking a felled tree from someone's garden isn't free - it costs me £100s per tree I think when I consider all the time to transport, process, air dry it and store it (not just the above). There is usually a lot of waste - 50% of a tree using this method can be wasted due to splitting. I use planks of timber from saw mills too - so long as they are air dried and British timber I'm OK with that too.

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